Beyond the Little Black Dress

About

The colour black can be interpreted in many subtle and often contradictory ways. The exhibition will explore how its complexities have made the little black dress simultaneously expressive of piety and perversion, respect and rebellion. It will examine the well-mannered cocktail attire of the early 20th century to the leather and latex worn by members of punk and fetish subcultures.

Beyond the Little Black Dress will open with a simple, short black dress designed by Coco Chanel in 1926. Considered radically modern, it disregarded convention entirely in both the stark design and sombre shade, that had traditionally been associated with mourning. At the time it was hailed by US Vogue as “the frock that all the world will wear”. The little black dress became a wardrobe staple, a symbol of femininity and a byword for chic, with each new silhouette capturing the spirit of its time. 

The little black dress remains a blank canvas for broader political and cultural shifts. It can challenge social norms around race, gender and sexuality to reflect evolving ideals of beauty and identity, proving its infinite capacity for reinvention.

The exhibition will chart a century of fashion in a series of themed, immersive displays. Iconic early pieces by Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Jean Muir will be juxtaposed with recent looks by ground-breaking contemporary designers and brands like Gareth Pugh, Simone Rocha and Off-White.

The exhibition features Black British designers whose work explores both Blackness in terms of identity, and the role the colour black plays in crafting a futuristic, sci-fi aesthetic. Elsewhere, the exhibition considers how perceptions of the colour black differ in a global context, as well as how the intervention of smart technologies is establishing a blueprint for a more sustainable future